Category Archives: Docks & Moorings

Stationary Docks: Easy To Build & Inexpensive

Stationary Docks

Stationary docks, also known as pipe docks or standing docks, are probably the most commonly used docks on lakes. They are inexpensive to build and ideal for small applications.

Easily constructed, they need no special tools or materials. However, they’re difficult to remove once installed, so they can be submerged by abnormally high water levels or damaged by ice surges. If flooding and freezing aren’t big problems on your lake, you can have your dock built in an afternoon.

Construction of Pipe Docks

Stationary docks are usually a platform of planking fixed to a frame, which is raised above the water’s surface by upright posts of wood or metal piping (hence the name pipe dock). The decking of standing docks can be made of fiberglass, plastic, aluminum or wood.

Pros and Cons of Standing Docks

Pros:

Stability: Stationary docks, when properly installed with adequate bracing in water depths up to 6’, are very sturdy for standing, lounging, walking on, and boarding boats.
Wind And Boat Chop: Provided the dock is set at a height above the greatest wave height, stationary docks will withstand large waves that pass underneath. For stationary docks that need to be set low in areas prone to chop perforated decking can be used to allow the water to pass through the deck.
Sand, Gravel And Rock Bottom: Stationary docks work best set up over sand, gravel or rock bottoms. This is especially important where spanning over large rocks that could cause damage to floating docks or obstruct the path of rolling docks.

Cons:

Bulky and Difficult to Move: If rising or dropping water levels, or icing over, require the dock to be moved, these may not be the best choice. Moving docks in and out of the water, or nearer or further to or from shore, is guaranteed to decrease the enjoyment of your dock.

More Articles About Docks:

Build a Stationary Dock- It’s Quick and Easy!

6 Replies

Build a Stationary Dock

Instructions to build a basic stationary dock:

Before you begin to build a stationary dock contact your state, county or town’s planning department or clerk to discover what permits are needed before starting the project. You may need a construction or zoning permit before beginning. Some municipalities require that docks be constructed a certain way or include railings.

Use a circular saw to cut 12-inch or 18-inch PVC pipe lengths that will be sunk 3 feet into the bottom of the waterway. The pipe should extend about 1 foot above the water level. Determine how far the dock should protrude into the water. When you build a stationary dock you should consider building a dock that allows for a 7-foot water overhang and 1 foot onshore.

Lay out the frame for the dock. Footers should be placed at each corner and every 6 feet along the edge of your dock, depending on its size. For example, to build a stationary dock that is 18 feet long, you should include two corner posts and one post in the middle. Additionally, place two corner posts onshore and a post in the middle. This will form a square shape.

Push the pipes into the ground at your post sites until they can’t go any deeper and they seal against the water. Scoop water from the pipes using a small cup or bucket. Stand the 6-inch-by-6-inch posts into the center of each PVC pipe. The flat side of the boards should be parallel to each other. Use a square to make sure each post is square. One by one, add pre-mixed concrete from bags into the pipes using a shovel. Fill the pipe to near the top with concrete and let it set overnight. Repeat the process for the onshore pipes, cutting away and protruding plastic.

Choose the height of the deck by marking a spot on each post with a chalk string. Put a level on the string to make sure it is flat and then mark each post as accurate. Cut off the excess posts with the reciprocating saw. Cut 2-inch-wide and 8-inch-deep notches for each frame board.

Place the 2-inch-by-8-inch boards in the notches so they make a square.

Drill 1/2-inch-wide holes through the top of the posts and framing boards. Position the frame on the posts using steel bolts in the holes. Use screws to attach 2-inch-by-6-inch joist hangers along the framing boards that are parallel to the shore. Place decking lumber down on top of the framing boards to create the bottom for the deck. Consider placing wood sealer on the structure to ensure its durability.

What You’ll Need To Build a Stationary Dock:

PVC pipe

6-by-6-inch wooden beams

Concrete mix

Shovel

2-by-8-inch framing lumber

2-by-6-inch joist hangers

Wood decking

Drill

1/2-inch drill bit

Steel bolts

Circular saw

Reciprocating saw

Decking screws.

The Dock Manual by Max Burns (a Book Review)

8 Replies

**Review of The Dock Manual: Designing/Building/Maintaining (Max Burns- author)**

If you’re lucky enough to own a piece of waterfront, you know that a dock will help realize the greatest value and enjoyment of your property. Now you can build your own dock, or repair an existing dock with this complete and easy-to-use guide.

The Dock Manual explains how to take advantage of your shoreline, while minimizing the impact upon the existing surroundings. It offers a thorough introduction to the basics of dock design and construction, and tells you everything you need to know about designing, building and maintaining a small residential dock.

The Dock Manual has ten complete plans for stationary and floating docks, along with details of the different applications for each type of dock. Each plan is complete with material and tool lists, and illustrated construction techniques. You’ll also find step-by-step instructions for analyzing your shoreline and choosing the right dock for your needs.

You’ll refer to The Dock Manual throughout the year for expert advice to help you:

Build angle, roller, and stair ramps
Paint, stain, and treat your dock
Make repairs and upgrades
Deter and repair decay to wood and plastic
Incorporate design options like trims and colors
Winterize your dock

This is a very good book for the beginning or intermediate do-it-yourself dock builder. It offers common sense practical advice on materials, types of docks and the different applications of each type. The Dock Manual provides good general-purpose advice and light instruction for anyone wanting to build a simple dock.

Mooring Your Boat on the Lake- About Moorings

6 Replies

What is Mooring?

Mooring is the fastening of your watercraft to a fixed object on the lake bed or to a floating object such as an anchor buoy.

Mooring by permanent anchor is the attachment of the watercraft to a float or buoy on the surface, which is itself attached to a permanent anchor at the bottom of the waterway by a rode (a line, cable, or chain).

..

Permanent Anchor Moorings

There are four basic types of permanent anchor moorings; dead weight, mushroom, screw in, and multiple anchor. These moorings are used instead of temporary anchors because they have considerably more holding power, cause less damage to the marine environment, and are convenient.

Permanent anchor moorings are also commonly used to hold dock floats in place.

.

Lake Mooring Tips and FAQ's - pyramid-type mooring anchor

Pyramid Mooring Anchor Designed to penetrate the bottom and prevent dragging this pyramid mooring anchor rapidly penetrates the bottom due to the high-point loading of its compact size and shape. The large surface area of the pyramid shape has a high suction effect which increases the deeper the anchor sets.

Dead weight moorings are the simplest kind of mooring. They are typically made as a large concrete block with an attached rode (line, cable, or chain from the anchor to the mooring buoy); they resist movement with their sheer weight. Dead weight moorings are simple and cheap, and are better suited for rocky bottoms where other mooring systems do not hold well. They are, however, bulky, heavy, and awkward.

Mushroom moorings and pyramid moorings are the most conventional moorings for sand, mud and silt substrate. They look like an upside down mushroom or pyramid which can bury itself in a soft lake-bed quite easily. Mushroom moorings and pyramid moorings can have up to ten times the holding power to weight ratio of dead weight moorings, but they’re more expensive and don’t hold well on rocky bottoms.

Screw in moorings are shafts with wide blades spiraling around it so that it can be screwed into the substrate. They have a high holding power to weight ratio. Screw in moorings are so small that they are relatively cheap, but they normally require a diver to install, inspect, and keep up.

Multiple anchor mooring systems use two or more light weight temporary anchors set up in an equilateral arrangement and all chained to a common center from which a conventional rode is attached to a mooring buoy. Multiple anchor mooring systems have minimal mass, are easy to deploy, have a high holding power to weight ratio, and are readily available.

.

Rode system

A rode system is a line, cable, or chain several times longer than the depth of the water running from the anchor to the The longer the rode is the shallower the angle of force on the anchor (it has more scope). A shallower scope means more of the force is pulling horizontally, so that the anchor plowing into the substrate adds holding power. It also increases the swinging circle of each mooring, and so lowers the density of the mooring field. By adding weight to the bottom of the rode, such as using a length of heavy chain, the angle of force can be decreased further. Unfortunately, this scrapes up the substrate in a circular area around the anchor. A buoy can be added to the lower section of rode to hold it off the bottom and avoid this issue.

The Lake Life

Living, and loving, life on the lake