Author Archives: Tom McHugh

Stationary Docks: Easy To Build & Inexpensive

Stationary Docks

standing docks, stationary docks, pipe docks

Stationary docks, also known as pipe docks or standing docks, are probably the most commonly used docks on lakes. They are inexpensive to build and ideal for small applications.

Easily constructed, they need no special tools or materials. However, they’re difficult to remove once installed, so they can be submerged by abnormally high water levels or damaged by ice surges. If flooding and freezing aren’t big problems on your lake, you can have your dock built in an afternoon.

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.standing docks, stationary docks, pipe docks

Construction of Pipe Docks 

Stationary docks are usually a platform of planking fixed to a frame, which is raised above the water’s surface by upright posts of wood or metal piping (hence the name pipe dock). The decking of standing docks can be made of fiberglass, plastic, aluminum or wood.

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Pros and Cons of Standing Docks

Pros:

  • Stability: Stationary docks, when properly installed with adequate bracing in water depths up to 6’, are very sturdy for  standing, lounging, walking on, and boarding boats.
  • Wind And Boat Chop: Provided the dock is set at a height above the greatest wave height, stationary docks will withstand large waves that pass underneath. For stationary docks that need to be set low in areas prone to chop perforated decking can be used to allow the water to pass through the deck.
  • Sand, Gravel And Rock Bottom: Stationary docks work best set up over sand, gravel or rock bottoms. This is especially important where spanning over large rocks that could cause damage to floating docks or obstruct the path of rolling docks.

Cons:

  • Bulky and Difficult to Move: If rising or dropping water levels, or icing over,  require the dock to be moved, these may not be the best choice. Moving docks in and out of the water, or nearer or further to or from shore, is guaranteed to decrease the enjoyment of your dock.

 

More Articles About Docks:

 

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Build a Stationary Dock- It’s Quick and Easy!

 

Build a Stationary Dock

 

Instructions to build a basic stationary dock:

 

Build a Stationary Dock

Before you begin to build a stationary dock contact your state, county or town’s planning department or clerk to discover what permits are needed before starting the project. You may need a construction or zoning permit  before beginning. Some municipalities require that docks be constructed a certain way or include railings.

Use a circular saw to cut 12-inch or 18-inch PVC pipe lengths that will be sunk 3 feet into the bottom of the waterway. The pipe should extend about 1 foot above the water level. Determine how far the dock should protrude into the water. When you build a stationary dock you should consider building a dock that allows for a 7-foot water overhang and 1 foot onshore.

Lay out the frame for the dock. Footers should be placed at each corner and every 6 feet along the edge of your dock, depending on its size. For example, to build a stationary dock that is 18 feet long, you should include two corner posts and one post in the middle. Additionally, place two corner posts onshore and a post in the middle. This will form a square shape.

Push the pipes into the ground at your post sites until they can’t go any deeper and they seal against the water. Scoop water from the pipes using a small cup or bucket. Stand the 6-inch-by-6-inch posts into the center of each PVC pipe. The flat side of the boards should be parallel to each other. Use a square to make sure each post is square. One by one, add pre-mixed concrete from bags into the pipes using a shovel. Fill the pipe to near the top with concrete and let it set overnight. Repeat the process for the onshore pipes, cutting away and protruding plastic.

Choose the height of the deck by marking a spot on each post with a chalk string. Put a level on the string to make sure it is flat and then mark each post as accurate. Cut off the excess posts with the reciprocating saw. Cut 2-inch-wide and 8-inch-deep notches for each frame board.

Place the 2-inch-by-8-inch boards in the notches so they make a square.

Drill 1/2-inch-wide holes through the top of the posts and framing boards. Position the frame on the posts using steel bolts in the holes. Use screws to attach 2-inch-by-6-inch joist hangers along the framing boards that are parallel to the shore. Place decking lumber down on top of the framing boards to create the bottom for the deck. Consider placing wood sealer on the structure to ensure its durability.

What You’ll Need To Build a Stationary Dock:

PVC pipe

6-by-6-inch wooden beams

Concrete mix

Shovel

2-by-8-inch framing lumber

2-by-6-inch joist hangers

Wood decking

Drill

1/2-inch drill bit

Steel bolts

Circular saw

Reciprocating saw

Decking screws.

 

 

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The Dock Manual by Max Burns (a Book Review)

Review of The Dock Manual: Designing/Building/Maintaining  (Max Burns- author)
The Dock Manual by Max Burns

If you’re lucky enough to own a piece of waterfront, you know that a dock will help realize the greatest value and enjoyment of your property. Now you can build your own dock, or repair an existing dock with this complete and easy-to-use guide.

The Dock Manual explains how to take advantage of your shoreline, while minimizing the impact upon the existing surroundings. It offers a thorough introduction to the basics of dock design and construction, and tells you everything you need to know about designing, building and maintaining a small residential dock.

The Dock Manual has ten complete plans for stationary and floating docks, along with details of the different applications for each type of dock. Each plan is complete with material and tool lists, and  illustrated construction techniques. You’ll also find step-by-step instructions for analyzing your shoreline and choosing the right dock for your needs.

The Dock Manual

You’ll refer to The Dock Manual throughout the year for expert advice to help you:

  • Build angle, roller, and stair ramps
  • Paint, stain, and treat your dock
  • Make repairs and upgrades
  • Deter and repair decay to wood and plastic
  • Incorporate design options like trims and colors
  • Winterize your dock

This is a very good book for the beginning or intermediate do-it-yourself dock builder. It offers common sense practical advice on materials, types of docks and the different applications of each type. The Dock Manual provides good general-purpose advice and light instruction for anyone wanting to build a simple dock.

 

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Mooring Your Boat on the Lake- About Moorings

What is Mooring?

about moorings

Mooring is the fastening of your watercraft to a fixed object on the lake bed or to a floating object such as an anchor buoy.

Mooring by permanent anchor is the attachment of the watercraft to a float or buoy on the surface, which is itself attached to a permanent anchor at the bottom of the waterway by a rode (a line, cable, or chain).

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Permanent Anchor Moorings

There are four basic types of permanent anchor moorings; dead weight, mushroom, screw in, and multiple anchor. These moorings are used instead of temporary anchors because they have considerably more holding power, cause less damage to the marine environment, and are convenient.

Permanent anchor moorings are also commonly used to hold dock floats in place.

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Lake Mooring Tips and FAQ's - pyramid-type mooring anchor

Pyramid Mooring Anchor Designed to penetrate the bottom and prevent dragging this pyramid mooring anchor rapidly penetrates the bottom due to the high-point loading of its compact size and shape. The large surface area of the pyramid shape has a high suction effect which increases the deeper the anchor sets.

  • Dead weight moorings are the simplest kind of mooring. They are typically made as a large concrete block with an attached rode (line, cable, or chain from the anchor to the mooring buoy); they resist movement with their sheer weight. Dead weight moorings are simple and cheap, and are better suited for rocky bottoms where other mooring systems do not hold well. They are, however,  bulky, heavy, and awkward.

 

  • Mushroom moorings and pyramid moorings are the most conventional moorings for sand, mud and silt substrate. They look like an upside down mushroom or pyramid which can bury itself in a soft lake-bed quite easily.  Mushroom moorings and pyramid moorings can have up to ten times the holding power to weight ratio of dead weight moorings, but they’re more expensive and don’t hold well on rocky bottoms.

 

  • Screw in moorings are shafts with wide blades spiraling around it so that it can be screwed into the substrate. They have a high holding power to weight ratio. Screw in moorings are so small that they are relatively cheap, but they normally require a diver  to install, inspect, and keep up.

 

  • Multiple anchor mooring systems use two or more light weight temporary anchors set up in an equilateral arrangement and all chained to a common center from which a conventional rode is attached to a mooring buoy. Multiple anchor mooring systems have minimal mass, are easy to deploy, have a high holding power to weight ratio, and are readily available.

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Rode system

A rode system is a line, cable, or chain several times longer than the depth of the water running from the anchor to the  The longer the rode is the shallower the angle of force on the anchor (it has more scope). A shallower scope means more of the force is pulling horizontally, so that the anchor plowing into the substrate adds holding power. It also increases the swinging circle of each mooring, and so lowers the density of the mooring field. By adding weight to the bottom of the rode, such as using a length of heavy chain, the angle of force can be decreased further. Unfortunately, this scrapes up the substrate in a circular area around the anchor. A buoy can be added to the lower section of rode to hold it off the bottom and avoid this issue.

Docking and Mooring Accessories and Supplies

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Proper Technique to Paddle a Canoe

Paddle a Canoe

Canoeing can be enjoyed by people of all ages. To get the most enjoyment from canoeing, you’ll need a properly fitted paddle and knowledge of the proper techniques to paddle a canoe.

 

The Fit

It is difficult and inefficient to paddle a canoe with a paddle that is too short or too long. Fortunately, fitting a paddle is very simple. Place the blade of the paddle on the top of your foot. Letting the blade touch the ground is not a good idea; it can easily damage the surface of the blade.

With the paddle standing vertically, the handle should be somewhere between your nose and chin. A paddle that is too long will be difficult to manage; a paddle that is too short will not provide enough thrust, and you’ll feel as if you have to bend down towards the water to paddle.

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Are you looking for an easier way to move

your kayak or canoe to and from the water?

Canoe & kayak carts offer a safe and easy way

to walk your craft to the launching site.

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The Grip

Hold the paddle, one hand firmly on top of the handle.Grip around the handle; your thumb should be underneath and pointing towards the front of the canoe. Your other hand should be a shoulder’s width away from your top hand. It should grip the shaft of the paddle securely.

The Stroke

When actually paddling, the most important thing to remember is to use your back; do not rely solely done on your arms to paddle a canoe. You can visualize the perfect form by imagining that a string is attached your nose to the top of the paddle’s handle. Doing this insures the proper amount of back movement and twisting.

Canoeing is a wonderful sport and hobby. With a properly sized paddle and some simple techniques, miles of effortless paddling can be achieved by anyone.

Other Canoeing and Kayaking Articles:

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Beach Chair Overview: What’s the Best Beach Chair For You?

The sun is shining, the music is playing, and you’ve got all day. Kick back on the warm sand or on your deck with a beach chair and let all your troubles float away on the waves.

More Than the Beach

folding beach chair

Beach chairs bring comfort beyond the beach at the lake! Summer is the time for fun, and your beach chair sets up wherever you need it – on your dock, on the deck, poolside, at ball games, or outdoor concerts, you’ll always have the best seat.

Different Styles of Beach Chairs

Beach chairs come in different styles and models designed to suit your active lifestyle.

Click on any of the links below to further explore each type or style.

What’s the Best Beach Chair For You?

Comfort

Steel or aluminum frames are also comfortable and because of their light weight you can carry these beach chairs anywhere. These styles sit closer to the ground, making them perfect beach chairs for sunbathing. Find exceptional comfort in a padded or rocking beach chair, or with the beach chair hammock.

 

Convenience

A great beach chair considers your needs. Cup holders, footrests, or storage pockets are popular features on beach chairs. For the exceptional portability, sling the backpack beach chair on your back, freeing your hands to carry baskets and bags.

Most importantly relax with your beach chair and soak up the rays, waves, and good times!

 

 

Color

Beach chairs have two parts: the frame and the fabric, both can be highly resistant to weather. Traditional wooden frames are the most durable and come in a variety of colors and styles. Fabrics are available in a variety of colors or patterns.

 

>>Visit The Beach Chair Shop Here< <

 

 

 

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>>Visit The Beach Chair Shop Here<<

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Kayaks

What are Kayaks?

Kayaker

Kayaks are small,  narrow, human-powered boats propelled by a double bladed paddle. Traditional kayaks have covered decks and one or more cockpits, for seating each paddler. Their cockpits are sometimes covered by a spraydeck (or “skirt”) preventing water from entering and allowing skilled kayakers, to roll the kayak (to capsize and right it without it filling with water or dumping the paddler). Modern kayaks have replaced the need for rolling with an increased stability,  reducing the likelihood of capsizing. Some modern kayaks are modified from the traditional design by: eliminating the cockpit and seating the paddler on top of the boat (“sit-on-top” kayaks); using inflated air chambers surrounding the boat; replacing the single hull by twin hulls (“W” kayak), and replacing paddles with  foot-powered rotational propellers and ‘flippers’. Kayaks are also being sailed, as well as propelled by means of small electric motors, and even by outboard gas engines, when possible.

 Kayak Origins

Eskimos in kayaks, Noatak, Alaska

Eskimos in kayaks, Noatak, Alaska

Kayaks are believed to be at least 4,000 years old and were first made and used by the native Innuit, Aleut and Eskimo hunters in sub-Arctic regions. The native people made many types of boat for different purposes. The baidarka, developed in Alaska, was made in double or triple cockpit designs, for hunting and transporting passengers or goods.

Umiaks are a large open sea canoes, ranging from 17 to 30 feet, made from seal skins and wood. It is considered a kayak although it was originally paddled with single-bladed paddles, and typically had more than one paddler.

Kayaks were originally developed to be used to hunt on inland lakes, rivers and coastal waters of the Arctic Ocean, North Atlantic, Bering Sea and North Pacific oceans. These first kayaks were constructed from stitched seal or other animal skins stretched over a wood or whalebone-skeleton frame. (Western Inuit used wood whereas the eastern Inuit used whalebone due to the treeless landscape).

Kayak Construction

Traditional kayaks encompass three types: Baidarkas, from the Alaskan & Aleutian seas, the oldest design, whose rounded shape and numerous chines give them an almost Blimp-like appearance; West Greenland kayaks, with fewer chines and a more angular shape, with gunwales rising to a point at the bow and stern; and East Greenland kayaks that appear similar to the West Greenland style, but often fit more snugly to the paddler and possess a steeper angle between gunwale and stem, which lends maneuverability.

Most of the Eskimo peoples from the Aleutian Islands eastward to Greenland relied on the kayak for hunting a variety of prey, mostly seals, though whales and caribou were important in some areas. Skin-on-frame kayaks are still being used for hunting by Inuit people in Greenland. In other parts of the world home builders are continuing the tradition of skin on frame kayaks, usually with modern skins of canvas or synthetic fabric.

Inuit kayak builders had specific measurements for their boats. The length was typically three times the span of his outstretched arms. The width at the cockpit was the width of the builder’s hips plus two fists (and sometimes less). The typical depth was his fist plus the outstretched thumb (hitch hiker). Thus typical dimensions were about 17 feet (5.2 m) long by 20–22 inches (51–56 cm) wide by 7 inches (18 cm) deep. This measurement system confounded early European explorers who tried to duplicate the kayak, because each kayak was a little different.

The Spraydeck

Native builders designed and built their boats based on their own experience and the knowledge and traditions handed down from previous generations. The word “kayak” means “man’s boat” or “hunter’s boat”, and native kayaks were personal crafts, each built by the man who used it with assistance from his wife, who sewed the skins to closely fit his size. A special skin jacket, Tuilik, was then laced to the kayak, to create a waterproof seal. This allowed the ‘eskimo roll’ to regain posture after capsizing, especially important because few Eskimos could swim; their waters are too cold for a swimmer to survive for long.

Instead of a tuilik, most traditional kayakers today use a spraydeck or sprayskirt made of waterproof synthetic material stretched to fit tightly around the cockpit rim and the body of the kayaker,  which can be quickly released from the cockpit to permit easy exit.

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.[important]

Are you looking for an easier way to move your kayak or canoe

to and from the water?

Canoe & kayak carts offer a safe and easy way

to walk your craft to the launching site.

Check out this comparison of the top canoe & kayak carts.

[/important]

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Modern Kayaks

Modern sea kayak in west WalesModern traditional-style kayaks owe their origins primarily to the native boats of Alaska, northern Canada, and Southwest Greenland. Wooden kayaks and fabric kayaks on wooden frames dominated the market until the 1950s, when fiberglass boats were first introduced. Inflatable rubberized fabric boats were first introduced in Europe soon after.

Rotomolded plastic kayaks first appeared in 1973, and today most kayaks are made from roto-molded Poletheylene resins. The use of plastic  and rubberized inflatable kayaks, making kayaks smaller, stronger and more resilient than fiberglass boats,probably started the development of freestyle kayaking as we know it today.

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Other Kayaking Articles:

 

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